Negativity, Pessimism, Sadness...
Or just the unvarnished truth?
I just changed the header of this blog to read: "Investigating the links between biological and cultural diversity in Alamos, Sonora, Mexico." Before I changed it, it was identical to my first post in this blog, and read like this: "This is a blog about the destruction of a small colonial Mexican town. It investigates the motives and mechanisms behind the destruction, the ideas and people involved, and the strategies and hopes of those who would save it from further tragedy."
I figured the old header might discourage readers. It sounds awfully depressing. But I'm afraid it is true. In the 10 years I have lived in Alamos, I have seen a continual erosion of cultural heritage. Aside from an erosion of tradition, I've seen the erosion of the colonial architecture and of ruins---the only remaining clues that could guide proper restoration of historic buildings in the future. As I became involved and saw the dynamics of the process, it took several hard knocks before I learned that circumstances are always complex. There is a kind of inertia at work, which makes it easy to believe that things will never change, or that they will change too late.
As just one example of a very multi-faceted and complex scenario, I'd like to mention the removal of the cobblestones throughout most of the the historic district, during David Corral's tenure as mayor. They were replaced with cement pavers. Make no mistake. I like David Corral. He is the only politician I have known in my life who has asked for my opinion. Before, during and after his administration, he has always greeted me when he sees me in the street. Just a few months ago, he saw me and crossed the street to shake my hand. He seems a polite, soft-spoken man. I wish democracy would always work this way.
Anyhow, when he did ask my opinion about his administration, I mentioned I was not pleased with the removal of the cobblestone. I saw a momentary flash of anger or disappointment on his face, and then he quickly composed himself and explained that cobblestone was not original, the streets used to be earthen, and the people called for the change. Cobblestones are murder for women who walk in high heels (true) and they tend to destroy automobile suspensions. I was constantly replacing tie-rods and ball joints. So David had some valid points.
Anytime I object to destruction of the authenticity of the historic district, another issue comes up...that of the sentimental gringo holding on to the past, and thus obstructing progress, or worse--interfering with a people's right to modernize as much as they wish. With the idea of "progress" comes the expectation of economic progress and the sentimental gringo stands in the way of this as well. I've heard it over and over. It is the viewpoint of people who have not lived to know, or noticed, that many people in the "developed" world long for simplicity and regret the emptiness of their ways of life.
I'd counter also with the idea that a town so economically dependent on tourism had better be very clear about what exactly makes the place appealing to tourists, and work to preserve it.
So...it came to pass that a small group of locals opposed the plan to remove the cobblestones, but they were removed anyway. I was not involved, because I didn't see a chance of winning, and felt it was not my place to protest, or object to legal decisions made by a valid government.
As a result of installing the cement pavers, there were lots of runoff problems during the summer rainy season. Some houses flooded. Rain used to seep between the cobblestones, which slowed the speed of runoff. Now, in an area desperate for water, the faster runoff means that the aquifers do not replenish as well as they did before.
I will say it over and over again in this blog, from a hundred different angles. Cement (Portland cement)=destruction of cultural heritage + environmental damage.
When I express my realistic, not pessimistic, appraisal of the prospects for the conservation of historic elements in town, it is tempting to make a simplistic generalization like, there are good guys and bad guys involved, and the good guys always lose. That is too easy, and thus untrue. What I do see is constant erosion, and nothing to stop it. It is not for a lack of sound proposals for viable alternatives. It is just the way things play out.
Now that there is practically nothing to save, I hope, at least, that this blog will be useful to those entrusted with the conservation of cultural heritage in other locales, to help them understand the dynamics at work.
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